Battery replacement iPhone 16 Pro Max

Let your phone’s battery level drop below 25% to reduce the risk of a lithium-ion battery hazard.

Disconnect any cables from your device.

Press and hold the power button along with either volume button, then slide to turn off your iPhone.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to take out the two 7.7 mm screws located on either side of the charging port.

The back cover can be opened in two different ways:

The first method is using a suction cup.

The second method is using a securing tool, which is safer.

This step shows how to use the securing tool, a tool designed to simplify the opening process.

If you’re not using the securing tool, skip ahead for an alternative method.

The securing tool creates suction on both the screen and back glass. To ensure a smooth opening, the screen must be secured with tape.

Cut two strips of tape and apply them along the longer edges of the iPhone 16.

Fold the tape over the screen to hold it in place.

Ensure the tape only secures the screen and does not overlap onto the back glass.

Pull the handle on the securing tool backward to release and unlock the arms.

Position your phone with the back glass facing upward.

Slide the securing tool arms over the right edge of the phone, ensuring one suction cup is on the back glass and the other is on the screen. Align them near the bottom edge.

Place a small box or similar object under the phone to keep it level while secured between the securing tool arms.

Press the suction cups together to create a firm grip.

If the securing tool struggles to hold onto your phone due to a smooth surface, apply some tape to increase traction.

Push the handle forward to secure the arms in place.

Rotate the handle one full turn (360 degrees) or until you see the suction cups begin to stretch.

While the cups stretch, ensure they remain aligned vertically. If they keep sliding out of position, remove the securing tool and apply tape to improve adhesion.

If tape isn’t available, try cleaning the suction cups with your hands and warming them slightly to enhance their grip.

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm the bottom edge of the back glass until it's warm to the touch.

Avoid overheating, as excessive heat can damage the battery.

Allow about a minute for the adhesive to soften and create a slight gap.

If no gap forms, apply additional heat and turn the handle a quarter rotation. Let the securing tool apply steady pressure.

Once a gap appears, carefully insert an opening pick.

Remove the securing tool by pulling the tabs on the suction cups.

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to gently warm the bottom edge of the screen until it feels warm to the touch.

Attach a suction cup to the bottom edge of the back glass.

With one hand stabilizing the frame, firmly pull up on the suction cup to create a small gap between the back glass and frame.

Carefully slide the tip of an opening pick into the gap.

Important back glass handling tips

While cutting through the adhesive to separate the back glass, avoid inserting your opening pick deeper than 3 mm to prevent damage to sensitive components:

A fragile cable near the volume down button that connects the back glass to the phone. Avoid inserting your pick in this area to prevent cutting the cable.

Several spring contacts surrounding the phone’s perimeter.

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to gently heat the right edge of the back glass until it becomes warm to the touch.

Keep your opening pick no deeper than 3 mm to prevent damage to the spring contacts.

Glide the opening pick along the bottom right corner and continue up the right edge of the back glass to break the adhesive and disengage the metal clip.

As you move past the clip, you'll notice an audible click and slight release.

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to apply heat to the top edge of the screen until it feels warm to the touch.

Keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm to prevent damage to the spring contacts.

Slide the pick around the top right corner and along the top edge to break the adhesive seal and release the two metal clips.

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to heat the left side of the back glass until it feels warm to the touch.

Keep your pick no deeper than 3 mm to prevent damage to the back glass cables and spring contacts.

Glide the pick along the left edge of the back glass breaking the remaining adhesive and freeing the last two metal clips.

By now, the back glass should be detached from the frame. If it still feels stuck, carefully run your pick around the edges again to remove any remaining adhesive or release any clips.

Gently rotate the back glass open over the right side of the phone and prop it up with a stable, clean support.

Use a clean, stable object to support the back glass.

Take out the opening pick before moving on.

Use a Tri-point Y000 screwdriver to unscrew the three fasteners holding it in place:

- Two screws measuring 1.3 mm

- One screw measuring 1.0 mm

Carefully lift and detach the battery connector shield.

Utilize the tip of a spudger to gently lift and disconnect the battery press connector.

Using blunt-nose tweezers or your fingers, slide the cover toward the left edge of the phone to disengage its hook from the slot on the logic board.

Lift the cover and remove it.

When reassembling:

position the hooks over their respective slots on the logic board. Press the cover down and slide it toward the right edge to secure the hooks in place.

Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully lift and detach the wireless charging coil press connector.

Take off the back glass connector shield.

Use a Tri-point Y000 screwdriver to remove the four screws securing it in place:

- Two screws measuring 1.3 mm

- Two screws measuring 1.0 mm

Lift the shield straight up and set it aside.

Use the tip of a spudger to carefully lift and disconnect the back glass connector.

Once disconnected, remove the back glass.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to take out the three screws holding it in place:

- One screw measuring 2.9 mm

- One screw measuring 1.3 mm

- One screw measuring 2.4 mm

Use tweezers to lift the top edge of the cover.

Once the bottom edge is free from the frame, remove the Taptic Engine cover.

Use the tip of a spudger to gently lift and disconnect the lower assembly cable from the logic board.

Then, use the spudger to disconnect the two connectors near the bottom right edge of the frame.

Use Phillips screwdriver and Tri-point Y000 remove the two screws securing the lower assembly cable:

- One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw

- One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

Use a heat gun or a hair dryer to warm the section of the lower assembly cable above the Taptic Engine until it becomes warm to the touch. Slide an opening pick underneath the cable to detach it from the Taptic Engine.

Carefully reposition the cable to the side to allow access to the Taptic Engine.

Use a Phillips screwdriver to remove the 2.1 mm screw securing it in place.

With the tip of  a spudger, lift the corner bracket.

Slide an opening pick along the top edge of the Taptic Engine to detach the plastic buffer strip adhered to it.

Carefully use the spudger to lift the Taptic Engine—avoid applying pressure against the battery.

Once free, remove the Taptic Engine.

Remove the four screws securing it in place:

- One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

- One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

- One 4.1 mm standoff screw

- One 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw

Insert the tip of a spudger under the bottom-right screw hole of the loudspeaker.

Gently lift and remove the loudspeaker.

The battery in your iPhone Pro Max is held in place by three stretch-release adhesive strips.

The next four steps will guide you through safely removing them to release the battery.

Take caution not to puncture or bend the battery. Keep sharp tools away from it to prevent damage.

Use the tip of an opening pick to lift and separate the black pull tab located at the bottom of the battery.

With tweezers, gently peel the tab away from the battery. Do not attempt to pull it out from underneath just yet.

Grip the pull tab using tweezers or your fingers and slowly stretch the adhesive strip out from under the battery, keeping the angle as low as possible.

Allow the adhesive to extend gradually, and regrip as needed. Be careful not to drag it over nearby components or cables.

If the strip becomes too long, wrap it around your tweezers and continue pulling.

Should a strip snap, try retrieving the remaining portion from beneath the battery. If it’s unreachable, proceed to the next strip and repeat the process for the remaining adhesive strips.

Move the lower assembly cable aside as needed to access the adhesive.

If all three adhesive strips were successfully removed, you can now take out the battery and proceed to reassembly instructions.

If any adhesive strips broke and couldn't be retrieved, continue with the next step using isopropyl alcohol to loosen them.

If the adhesive strips broke, follow this step to remove the battery.

Tilt the iPhone by lifting the bottom edge of the frame.

Use a pipette or syringe to carefully apply 2–3 drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol along the bottom edge of the battery, near where each broken adhesive strip was located.

Allow about one minute for the isopropyl alcohol to seep under the battery and weaken the adhesive.

Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the left side of the battery and the frame.

Gently pry the battery upwards using slow, steady pressure, giving the adhesive time to release.

Avoid bending or creasing the battery. If it resists, apply a few additional drops of isopropyl alcohol and attempt again.

Once the adhesive is loosened, carefully lift out and remove the battery.

The following steps will guide you through reassembling your iPhone.

Depending on your iPhone model, some images in the reassembly instructions might look slightly different. However, the process itself will remain accurate for your device.

Clear any leftover adhesive from the battery compartment. Use a lint-free cloth with a few drops of isopropyl alcohol to clean the frame surface.

Temporarily connect the new battery and position it in its compartment to ensure the cable properly reaches the logic board socket.

Disconnect the battery from the logic board, then remove the adhesive liner from the battery.

If the replacement battery does not come with pre-installed adhesive, use a thin layer of double-sided tape to secure it. Battery adhesive is extremely strong—take care when positioning the battery, as adjustments will not be possible once it sticks.

Align the new battery carefully and place it into the compartment.

Firmly press the new battery down with your fingers for about ten seconds to secure it to the frame.

Position the bottom edge of the loudspeaker at an angle toward the frame.

Gently press the loudspeaker into its designated slot.

Secure it by installing the four screws:

- One 1.7 mm Phillips screw

- One 1.5 mm Phillips screw

- One 4.1 mm standoff screw

- One 1.3 mm tri-point Y000 screw

Place the Taptic Engine into its designated slot. Use your finger to pivot the corner bracket back into position.

Secure the Taptic Engine by installing the 2.1 mm Phillips screw.

Gently press the lower assembly cable onto the top of the Taptic Engine using your finger.

Fasten the lower assembly cable by installing the two screws:

- One 1.0 mm tri-point Y000 screw

- One 1.3 mm Phillips screw

Use a spudger or your finger to press and secure the two lower assembly cable connectors.

Position the Taptic Engine cover in place, aligning it with the screw holes. Ensure the bottom edge properly clips onto the frame.

Secure the cover by installing the three screws:

- One 2.9 mm screw

- One 1.3 mm screw

- One 2.4 mm screw

Finally, use your finger or a spudger to press the assembly cable connector onto the logic board.

While cleaning the frame, be cautious around the delicate grounding clips. If any get bent out of position, carefully realign them using tweezers.

Remove larger adhesive pieces from the frame’s edges using blunt-nose tweezers.

Use a spudger to gently scrape off any remaining adhesive residue.

If the adhesive is difficult to remove, apply heat with a hair dryer or heat gun to soften it, then attempt removal again.

If you plan to reuse the back glass, dampen a microfiber or lint-free cloth with a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol.

Gently wipe around the edges to clean the surface and ensure it's ready for new adhesive.

Cover the tip of a spudger with a lint-free cloth or a coffee filter, then apply a few drops of high-concentration isopropyl alcohol (90% or higher).

Gently wipe along the edges of the frame in a single direction to remove any remaining adhesive residue.

Take your time with this step—thorough cleaning ensures the new adhesive adheres evenly, creating a strong and secure bond.

Position the new adhesive sheet over the frame to check its correct orientation.

Use key features like the camera cutout and notches along the top and bottom edges to visualize how it will fit in place.

Hold the tab at one corner of the adhesive sheet and carefully peel back a portion of the liner, revealing about a third of the adhesive.

The exposed adhesive is extremely sticky—avoid letting it touch anything until you're ready to apply it to the frame.

If the adhesive has multiple liners, remove the one that exposes the sticky side meant for the frame.

Carefully align the exposed edge of the adhesive strip with the corresponding edge of the iPhone frame.

Once the adhesive is placed, it cannot be repositioned. If misaligned, you’ll need to remove it and use a new adhesive sheet.

When properly aligned, gently press the exposed adhesive strip onto the frame to secure it in place.

Gradually peel away the liner while gently pressing the adhesive into place.

If properly aligned, the adhesive should fit seamlessly along the edges of the frame.

If the alignment is slightly off, carefully adjust the long edges to ensure they match the frame's contours.

Should the adhesive start to wrinkle or crease, remove it completely and use a fresh set.

If no replacement adhesive is available, you can temporarily reassemble and use your iPhone without it. However, keep in mind that this will affect the device’s water resistance until new adhesive is applied.

Use a spudger to press the adhesive firmly along the entire perimeter of the frame, working carefully around delicate grounding clips. If any clip bends out of position, gently realign it using tweezers or your fingers.

Avoid applying excessive pressure, as this could stretch or deform the adhesive.

Locate the pull tab attached to the large front liner—usually positioned in a corner—and lift it using a spudger or your fingers.

Gently pull the tab to remove the large front liner from the adhesive.

At this stage, there may still be smaller liners covering the perimeter to prevent the adhesive from sticking prematurely during reassembly. Leave these in place for now.

Use your finger or the flat end of a spudger to gently press the battery connector onto the logic board, ensuring a secure connection.

Before fully reassembling your iPhone, this is a good time to test your repair. Power on the device and check if it functions correctly. Once confirmed, turn it off and proceed with reassembly.

If the iPhone does not power on, try connecting it to a charger and attempt again.

For those who have replaced the logic board and are experiencing a display issue, refer to the screen installation guide to manually reconnect the display connector.

Position the back glass connector cover over its designated screw holes and place it securely in position.

Use a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to fasten the four screws holding the back glass connector cover in place:

- Two 1.3 mm screws

- Two 1.0 mm screws

Next, align the battery connector cover over its corresponding screw holes and set it in place.

Secure it by using a tri-point Y000 screwdriver to install the three screws:

- Two 1.3 mm screws

- One 1.0 mm screw

Use a spudger to carefully peel off all the perimeter liners, revealing the adhesive underneath.

Ensure that nothing comes into contact with the exposed adhesive as you remove the liners.

Inspect both the frame and back glass for any remaining liner pieces and remove them completely—there should be none left.

Lower the back glass onto the frame, starting from the top edge.

If you encounter resistance, check for any perimeter clips that may have bent out of place and are preventing a proper fit. Identify the issue and gently adjust any misaligned clips.

Press along the edges of the iPhone to secure the back glass, ensuring it sits evenly against the frame

Firmly press along the edges of the iPhone using your fingers to ensure the back glass is properly set.

Place your iPhone face down on a clean, flat surface.

To protect the back glass finish, wrap a strip of tape around its edges.

Stack coins around the perimeter of the back glass, creating a barrier as tall as the rear camera bump.

Alternatively, use vise clamps around the edges of the device to help secure the adhesive. Another option is to place 3–4 heavy books evenly on top of your iPhone.

Be mindful that the coins may leave a slight imprint on the bottom book cover, so avoid using anything delicate or valuable.

Leave the weight in place for approximately 30 minutes.

This applied pressure helps the adhesive properly bond and secure the back glass.

Use a P2 pentalobe screwdriver to fasten the two 7.4 mm screws located on both sides of the charging port.