Replacing LCD display on the iPhone 11 Pro Max

Before starting, it is necessary to discharge the iPhone below 25% because a charged Li-ion battery can ignite or explode if accidentally cut.

• 1. Turn off the iPhone
• 2. On the bottom edge of the iPhone, unscrew two 6.7 mm long pentalobe screws using a Pentalobe PL1 (0.8 mm) screwdriver.

Opening iPhone will break its waterproof seal, so have a replacement seal ready before beginning this step. Without a new seal, your iPhone will not be waterproof.

A) Heating the phone

1. It is recommended to wear protective ESD gloves.

2. Using a heat gun or a hair dryer, heat entire bottom side of the iPhone for about 2 minutes to reach a temperature of approximately 80°C (176°F), or until it becomes difficult to keep your hand on the phone due to the high temperature.

Heating the phone up helps to soften the adhesive between the display and the phone frame, making it easier to open.

Note: There is a fragile cable linking the screen to the phone. Cable is positioned right under the power/unlock button.

There are several spring contacts located around the phone's perimeter.

Exercise caution to avoid inserting your pick deeper than recommended in these areas to prevent bending these contacts.

B) Opening the display

The display can be opened in two different ways: The first method is using a suction cup, and the second method is using a securing tool, which is safer.

In this guide, we will proceed using a suction cup.

Placement of the suction cup

• Place the suction cups near the bottom edge of the iPhone, one on the front and the other on the back, and gently press down on the spot.
• If using a single cup, attach it to the bottom edge of the phone, stay away from the edge of the glass.
• Securely hold your iPhone and with firm, steady pressure, pull on the suction cup to create a gap between the frame and the display.

After separating the display about 3 mm from the frame, insert a pick or card into the gap.

The adhesive holding the display in place is very strong. Therefore, creating this initial gap requires considerable force. If you encounter difficulty, reheat the bottom edge and gently slide the display up and down repeatedly to weaken the adhesive until you create a gap large enough to insert the card.

C) Heating up the top edge

• Using a heat gun or a hair dryer, heat the top edge of the iPhone (the edge with the power button) for 90 seconds or until the display becomes too hot to touch.

D) Releasing the top clip and separating the adhesive (top side of the iPhone)

Avoid inserting the pick deeper than 3 mm to prevent damaging the front panel sensor array.

• The upper edge of the display is held in place by both adhesive and clips.

Carefully pull the right side of the display downward (towards the Lightning port).

• Insert your pick into the top-right corner of the phone.

• Keep pulling the display downward (toward the Lightning port) as necessary to create a gap large enough for the pick.

• Slide the pick toward the top-left corner, cutting through any remaining adhesive securing the display.

Grip the small tab on the Suction cup and lift it to detach it from the screen.

• Carefully open the screen to the left side of the phone.

If the screen appears to be stuck, revisit the edges to ensure no sections of adhesive or clips are overlooked.

• Support the screen against a box or similar object to prevent strain on the cables.

Do not attempt to fully detach the screen yet, as fragile flat flex cable is still connected to the iPhone's motherboard.

Warning: If the battery is damaged stop the repair. Do not put yourself in danger.

When reassembling the iPhone to its original state, place the display in position. Align the clips along the top edge and before snapping the rest of the display into place, gently press the top edge into position. If it doesn't snap into place easily, check the condition of the clips around the perimeter of the screen and ensure they are not bent.

Utilize a Y000 tri-point screwdriver to loosen the screws holding the battery cover in place:

- Two screws measuring 1.3 mm in lenght

Use tweezers to lift the cover and remove it.

Employ the pointed end of an spudger to lift and detach the battery press connector.

When reattaching a press connector, align it with its socket and carefully press down on one side until it clicks into position, then repeat the process for the other side. Ensure it sits flush, as the insulating rubber around the sockets may hinder a complete connection.

When reassembling phone this is a good time to test your new display if it works correctly before sealing the phone again.

• Use a Y000 tri-point screwdriver to take out the six 1.3 mm screws that secure the logic board cover bracket.

Use tweezers to lift the cover and remove it.

Use a Y000 screwdriver to take out the four 1.1 mm screws securing the cover.

Use tweezers to take out the front sensor connector cover. 

• Utilize the pointed tip of a spudger to disconnect the display cable from assembly.

​​​​​​​When reattaching press connectors like this, gently align them and press down on one side until it clicks into place, then do the same on the other side. Avoid pressing on the center. Misalignment can cause the pins to bend, leading to permanent damage.

• Use a spudger to disconnect the front sensor assembly cable connector.

• Next, use a spudger to detach the digitizer cable connector.

If any part of the screen becomes unresponsive to touch after the repair, disconnect the battery and reseat this connector, ensuring it clicks securely into place and that there is no dust or debris in the socket.

• Remove the display and place it on a clean, straight surface.

Warning: Do not touch the TrueDepth camera, grounding springs or near parts.

Exercise caution to avoid causing harm to any of the spring contacts while cleaning the frame.

• Take out the three screws holding the speaker/sensor assembly to the back of the display:

   

- Two Phillips screws (1.6 mm)

- One Y000 screw (1.4 mm)

The earpiece speaker is held in place with light adhesive.

• Use the pointed end of a spudger to carefully lift the top edge of the speaker.

• Rotate the speaker assembly downward and away from the top edge of the display.

The speaker is still connected by a delicate ribbon cable, so handle it with care to avoid any damage.

• Use a heat gun, hair dryer or hot plate to apply heat to the top edge of the screen. But be careful not to overheat it—the display is sensible to heat damage.

• Using the tip of a spudger, carefully pry the microphone out of its slot in the front panel.

• Using tweezers, gently loosen and lift the ambient light sensingr from its slot in the display.
• If it doesn’t come free after a few seconds, apply additional heat and try once more.

The sensor is still connected to the rest of the assembly by a thin flex cable, so handle it carefully to avoid straining or damaging the cable.

If you managed to remove the entire ambient light sensor, proceed to the next step.

If the white diffuser strip has come off and remains stuck in the display, carefully pry it out along the top edge using a thin blade or pry tool. Applying additional heat beforehand can make this process easier.

During reassembly, insert the diffuser into the display first, ensuring it’s facing the correct direction.

Next, position the ambient light sensor on top of the diffuser. You'll need to hold the sensor in place while fastening the screws for the earpiece/sensor assembly. Once secured, the sensor will remain in place and function properly.

• Starting from the left, slide an opening pick under the flex cable and beneath the proximity sensor and flood illuminator module.

• Carefully wiggle and lift to detach the module from its slot in the front panel.

It can be useful to lift and hold the speaker aside for better access, but be cautious not to tug on the thin flex cable while working.

• Take out the earpiece speaker along with the front sensor assembly.

When reassembling, ensure the black plastic module housing the following components is correctly aligned:

• Proximity sensor
• Flood illuminator

Make sure the module is positioned in a way that these components remain unobstructed by any adhesive.

• Connect the sensor to its designated slot in the new display to assist you in aligning the main section of the assembly.

• Then, use double sided tape to re-affix any parts of the assembly that have lost their adhesive properties.

Put the bracket back in its place on the new display and screw back the screws that is holding it in place.

Remove all the old screen adhesive around the perimeter of your iPhone's case using a spudger or tweezers.

Be sure to remove any remaining smaller bits of adhesive with the tip of your spudger.

Be careful not to damage any of the spring contacts as you go around the frame.

Using a lint-free cloth (or coffee filter) with a bit of isopropyl alcohol, clean the areas of the case and rear display where you removed the old adhesive.

This will help remove any remaining adhesive residue and prep the surface for the new adhesive.

For best results, swipe your cleaning cloth in one direction, not back and forth.

Apply new adhesive around the edges of the iPhone.

Reconnect the battery through the reverse process.

The new adhesive will ensure the iPhone's resistance to water and dust.

Before placing the new display on the iPhone make sure to remove the protective foil.

Opening your iPhone will breach its water-resistant seal, so have a replacement seal ready before starting this step. Without a new seal, your iPhone will not be water-resistant, and there's a higher likelihood of dust or moisture ingress.

Check the phone for excess screws and small parts that may be stuck in the body of phone and remove them.

Install the new display on your phone.

When reassembling the iPhone back to its original state, follow these instructions in reverse order.

After reassembly, perform a forced restart. This may help prevent some issues.